Not summer, not winter, no something in between. Resort. Just before summer, pre-spring collections hit the runway. What will designer come up with this season? Vanessa Friedman, fashion editor for the New York Times knows the answer: Skin. Yours or something animal like.
Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein showed ultrasuede in tones from cream to sapphire and cropped cotton knits which left a little bit of skin around the stomach. Phoebe Philo played with coloured suède in unlined trenches and Sonia Rykiel celebrated leather culottes. And snakeskin was the formula at Lanvin, Reed Krakoff and Stella McCartney.
“Resort collections are a walk on the whimsical side,” says Cathy Horyn in the New York Times. She speaks of a compleet distraction, because nobody could really decide if resort should be a nice reworking of a deigner’s latest runway line or its own thing. Should it be relaxed or beachy she wonders. Or a fresh interpretation, in which she praises Raf Simons for his first resort show in May.
Still, whatever you make of it, I don’t think we could be without this in-between-collections.
How does she do it? Everything she designs will be a massive hit. Think of the wedge sneaker or the tye dye pants. Isabel Marant is more happening than ever. With a little help of Emanuelle Alt, former fashion director of French Vogue, she conquered the fashion market and the fast fashion retail stores replicated her designs. Since 2011, the perfectly tousled French casual look is here to stay. H&M wisely contracted her to design a collection, which will give the Swedish retailer a little bit of that French cool.
Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, who best epitomize the expansive confidence associated with the most recent incarnation of the New York fashion scene, were both born and trained in the environs of the city. They garnered their experience of the trad in the tough environment of Seventh Avenue and rose to international prominence on the back of the recasting of corporate triumphalism and free-trade machismo in the early eighties. Their brand of body-conscious, sartorial fitness, which offered the promise of luxury in an accessible form, provided the ideal wardrobe for the confident classless, and authoritativ yuppie stereotypes who signified material and emotional success in countless aspirational advertising campaigns, television soap operas, and Hollywood blockbusters to the end of the century. (C. Breward)
Uniqlo. I don’t know what to make of it. Is it really the next best thing in the retailsector? Lately I’ve been reading lots of articles on Uniqlo taking over the worldwide retailbrance, expanding to the US and Europe. But will it gain the succes it has achieved in its homeland Japan and Asia? The brand is not about fashion. Perfect basics and sustainable materials are the defining characteristics of its clothes. Will Europe go Uniqlo? I doubt it, unless we get tired of fast fashion chains like H&M and Zara. Still I am hoping for expansion in the Netherlands, can’t wait to see for myself what is behind its succes.
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